Arrival Day 2013 – Winter

Everything went as planned. 50 minutes from touchdown to sitting in a taxi. 50 minutes more to the hotel door (there was a little traffic). We saw homeless encampments all along the highway, we saw Aeroville in the distance, it was raining lightly. When the fast line in the passport control was empty, I was seen leaning against this thing that looks like a giant round desk (with my walking stick, which I do not call a cane, thank you) and a nice lady beckoned me into the fast line. It saved us about 10-15 minutes is all, but it is yet another example of the French attentiveness to common sense and to people with reduced mobility.

Check-in at the hotel (Hotel Paris Rivoli) couldn’t have gone faster or better, complete with a sweet little lesson in French from the man at the desk. He knew within two sentences of our speech that one of us was mostly American, but wanted to know a little more and we had a nice little discussion of French Polynesia and California (he used to live in L.A., had never visited our little hometown, but knew a beach nearby).

Then we crashed for 3 hours. Room is sweet, clean and more than enough for us. We have two little balconies, which is nice for checking the weather. Also for people watching. Really fun people-watching. Elevator works. It’s cool to stay in a hotel with all the little brochures.  THIS one is right in the middle of a neighborhood we know well, so after sleeping for about 3 hours, we freshened up (French style bathtub, no shower curtain, just like at home), and headed out for a walk. We walked past Saint Paul as the bells were ringing. We finally walked down Rue des Francs Bourgeois (fun, but I see why people wish it had stayed traditional). The garden at Carnavalet looked just as nice in winter. Lots of other medieval and somewhat newer buildings (we’re staying right off François Miron).  Room has a small closet, two little sleigh beds pushed together, hooks for purses and things and good quality soap.  There are abundant cafés nearby and an ATM right outside the door.  Have not yet tested whether cards work.

Went to tabac on Rue de Sevigny where very nice man sold us carnet and advised waiting to recharge Navigo Decouverte.  V.  figured out bus route to D’Orsay for the Male Nude exhibit tomorrow (bus stop right outside hotel).

Oh, almost forget:  we went to an art opening just around the corner, even into the caveau (V. had no trouble with claustrophobia; I definitely felt a little old to be there, which is unusual but…it was really a party for younger people…great exhibit about gender and gender-bending though).

In the end, we went to what must be one of our favorite cafés in all of Paris, it’s not on TripAdvisor and has only 3 Yelp reviews. Thank the gods. Sometimes we are the oldest people there, but as usual, tonight we were one of two fifty-something couples. Everyone else was young. Gay couples, solo female travelers, solo female locals, friends out with tourists, young French people sitting outside smoking. Prompt, correct service. We both had the same thing. Planchette. What is my thing with merguez? I really like it with hot mustard. V. ate half my other stuff, but none of the potatoes (they call them dauphinois or something, but they are roasted new potatoes with skins, and they taste SO good; we have no potatoes like this back home; we wondered if winter potatoes would be as good). Pichot of wine (red, Montagne Saint-Emilion) was very good.

We are NOT cold. I was too warm in the restaurant. My intuition that I should wear lightweight things under my coat was correct. Coat was perfect. I didn’t mind getting rained on a little (it was such a light rain), but I had a hood. My turtleneck with layering piece was too much for sitting inside. Turtlenecks may all stay here and never see the light of day again – regular clothes with a jacket seem to be the way to go. Newish Merrill rain/snow boots were fine in terms of comfort and there were some puddles, so that was good.

Saw the most adorable baby clothes. A designer dress for a 9 month old and an adorable military jacket for a 9 month old boy. And much else. Could not follow rule of buying immediately because it was past 7 pm.

Now for the HIGHLIGHT! ICE SKATING! Ice skating, decor at BHV (I know it’s not Galleries Lafayette but it’s very cute and we have nothing like it at home). Ice skating! And the statues at Hotel de Ville watching everything; misty Notre Dame in the distance and that spotlight from the Radio Tower they have here. BHV is very nicely lit up for Christmas.  Naturally, we did not ice skate ourselves.

We had café gourmand, after wisely deciding no entrée. Yum. We toasted Utah’s new stance on gay marriage, we toasted France and in general planned our time for tomorrow. Supposed to be at D’Orsay at 11:30. And still haven’t accomplished primary mission of seeing the windows in the Grands Boulevards.